Red | Ready, but will improve | Black Elephant Vintners | 2015 | South Africa > Western Cape | Pinotage | Full Bodied, Dry | 14% abv

If you love Pinotage, you'll really love this; if you don't, this should also change your mind. But firstly, why the bonkers name? It all stems from Black Elephant's equally madcap Sauvignon Blanc, Two Dogs A Peacock & A Horse, which a couple of years ago was nicknamed "Three Men In A Tub With A Rubber Duck" by the gents' US importers in New York. So naturally when thinking up a name for their new Pinotage, they chose this.

Hand-picked from Die Perskoen in Wellington and on Scherpenheuwel in Franschhoek, two old bush-vine vineyards planted on decomposed granite soils ideal for Pinotage because it allows even, steady ripening of what is a naturally vigorous variety. Wild fermentation with 15 per cent whole-bunch, very low added sulphur and no chemical additives. It goes through an old basket press before two years' maturation in old (5-8 years old) French oak barrels.

The wine's dark colour suggests it's going to be heavier than it is: this is truly fresh, fragrant and moreish. Berries, chocolate and Middle Eastern spicing. Just fantastic, and just 4,500 bottles.